Fashion and Design has been highly influenced by the cultural factor. Lately it seems that media and internet has been taking over to become the interactive reality centers, whether it's newspapers, magazines, internet, television etc. If I look at my daily interaction with these mediums, Internet accounts for 60%, Cellphone 30% and Television and Newspapers 10% and the information soaked in my brain have the combination of all these mediums. Therefore my subject of design research or trends are influenced by the imaginations captured by these virtual reality information centers that i've absorbed from morning to evening.
Can i be creative in this given situation? Yes i can but in a free context rather than inspired context, my ideas must not be culminated with the influences i ve registered from the influences from morning to evening. In old times the significance of "Chintan" was based on isolating self from the material and surroundings in order to think out of box solutions, the timings for chintan used to be from 4-6 am in the morning known as "bramh period" of the day. The changing centers and aspirations of reality will see a lot of currupt creative brains rather than unique, novel and original.
The whole arguements leads us to establish a time table that can cultivate true creative thinking and can bring the best of knowledge and outcome, even education and curriculums needs to factor in such changes and give the students/learners some time to think creative having no influences and chintas around. We hope that we will be able to deliver quality education in this regard and evolve a curriculum that will bring in a new way of mentoring not teaching.
Friday, January 29, 2010
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Inspiring Traditions
Recently while watching the republic day parade, i had encountered glimpses of various states and traditions. How brilliant they are in terms of their overall tradition snd culture. Unfortunately the inspirations in fashion today are drawn from rest of the world but not largely india.
This 10000 yr OLD civilization offers so much to choose from, in textiles, motifs, ideology, philosophy, designs, and techniques. I'm determined to choose my inspirations from this vibrant culture. The best of the fashion and lifestyle products and services are based on Indigenous ethos only, whether ayurved, yog OR organic culture. The genere of vivid past brings montage of what is indeed needed for our designers to create a significant mark in international design scene.
It also offers the most creative solutions to our production technology and suppy chain management. To quote one such examples, China uses majority of the transportation for various goods still connected through rivers across the country. India is a large hub of rivers unfortunately there are hardly water in even those rivers. The ancient systems has KOAN in it, which had fine balance amongst nature and technology. There are many more examples I'll quote related to the above topic.
This 10000 yr OLD civilization offers so much to choose from, in textiles, motifs, ideology, philosophy, designs, and techniques. I'm determined to choose my inspirations from this vibrant culture. The best of the fashion and lifestyle products and services are based on Indigenous ethos only, whether ayurved, yog OR organic culture. The genere of vivid past brings montage of what is indeed needed for our designers to create a significant mark in international design scene.
It also offers the most creative solutions to our production technology and suppy chain management. To quote one such examples, China uses majority of the transportation for various goods still connected through rivers across the country. India is a large hub of rivers unfortunately there are hardly water in even those rivers. The ancient systems has KOAN in it, which had fine balance amongst nature and technology. There are many more examples I'll quote related to the above topic.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Learning Innovations
The first introduction i had with innovation during my child hood, i had been an average EQ child with some good skills in drawing and painting. The primary objective during my school days to go to school was to attend drawing classes and spend time in drawing room with our teacher Mrs. Manjula Singh. What we know today about art & skills is all her guidance and efforts to shape both the brothers. The creative thinking and skill development started from my school kendriya vidyalaya, Tughlakabad.
My first introduction to innovation started with observing my father doing "out of box" work during 1980's. He was a electronic engineer by profession with good knowledge in telecommunications. His approach to work on various things had always four primary objectives: 1. Highly cost effectice products 2. Grass Root elements and 3. Reusablity of junk and used objects always left for kabadivala's 4. Sustainablity. I remember distinctly that when our handpump was removed from one location in the house and shifted to another location, a lot of pipe was unused in the process. The boring of other handpump required thick gage pipe and therefore the residue to previous hand pump could not be used. He has then developed a range of furnitures made of those pipes, a cot which has interesting design elements, a coffee table and a book rack, the bore of the previous handpump was used as water absorbing & filtering drainage system known as "sokhta". His ability to transform these basic elements into meaningful ideas has been phenomenal, oftenly what we treat as garbage has been highly important to him. We often kept observing these developments and our minds started working on shaping things around us in more useable & functional based model within the given context. His designs of lamps coming out of "OLD dalda dabbas" or "clothes rack" made from broken bamboo & jute cots were some finest piece of work. This was our first interaction to innovation and design that convinced us to think lateral for rest of our lives.
My first introduction to innovation started with observing my father doing "out of box" work during 1980's. He was a electronic engineer by profession with good knowledge in telecommunications. His approach to work on various things had always four primary objectives: 1. Highly cost effectice products 2. Grass Root elements and 3. Reusablity of junk and used objects always left for kabadivala's 4. Sustainablity. I remember distinctly that when our handpump was removed from one location in the house and shifted to another location, a lot of pipe was unused in the process. The boring of other handpump required thick gage pipe and therefore the residue to previous hand pump could not be used. He has then developed a range of furnitures made of those pipes, a cot which has interesting design elements, a coffee table and a book rack, the bore of the previous handpump was used as water absorbing & filtering drainage system known as "sokhta". His ability to transform these basic elements into meaningful ideas has been phenomenal, oftenly what we treat as garbage has been highly important to him. We often kept observing these developments and our minds started working on shaping things around us in more useable & functional based model within the given context. His designs of lamps coming out of "OLD dalda dabbas" or "clothes rack" made from broken bamboo & jute cots were some finest piece of work. This was our first interaction to innovation and design that convinced us to think lateral for rest of our lives.
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Media Coverage-Gujarat Police Uniform
http://www.expressindia.com/latest-news/Gujarat-police-to-dress-in-style/399148/
http://www.indianexpress.com/news/new-uniform-still-a-dream-for-guj-police/387136/
http://www.vandeindia.com/gujarat-police-to-dress-in-style.html
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/6449681.stm
http://www.telegraphindia.com/1070315/asp/nation/story_7518823.asp
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad/Now-paunch-proof-dress-for-cops/articleshow/1623885.cms
http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSDEL27258220070313
http://www.humanflowerproject.com/index.php/weblog/comments/a_badge_a_billyclub_and_jasmine/
http://www.televisionpoint.com/news2008/newsfullstory.php?id=1204695816
http://www.policecars.us/thingsthatmakeyousaywhat.html
http://www.abc.net.au/news/newsitems/200703/s1871242.htm
http://www.mg.co.za/article/2007-03-13-indian-police-hot-on-the-scent-of-crime
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad/Many-a-crossroad-between-cops-and-NID/articleshow/4544090.cms
http://www.highbeam.com/Cape+Argus+(South+Africa)/publications.aspx?date=200703&pageNumber=14
http://rantingsbymm.blogspot.com/2007/03/worlds-first-metrosexual-policemen.html
http://social.moldova.org/news/state-cops-to-smell-good-40435-eng.html
http://www.earthtimes.org/articles/show/47809.html
http://findarticles.com/p/news-articles/times-of-india-the/mi_8012/is_20070306/rose-cop-ahmedabad/ai_n39437336/
http://www.radioislam.co.za/news/2007/March%202007/News%2015.03.07.htm
http://www.clothes2order.com/read_news/170/2/Policemen_in_India_to_Receive_New,_Better_Smelling_Uniforms.html
http://www.theindiatree.com/forum2/index.php?showtopic=213&st=20
http://www.indianexpress.com/news/new-uniform-still-a-dream-for-guj-police/387136/
http://www.vandeindia.com/gujarat-police-to-dress-in-style.html
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/6449681.stm
http://www.telegraphindia.com/1070315/asp/nation/story_7518823.asp
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad/Now-paunch-proof-dress-for-cops/articleshow/1623885.cms
http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSDEL27258220070313
http://www.humanflowerproject.com/index.php/weblog/comments/a_badge_a_billyclub_and_jasmine/
http://www.televisionpoint.com/news2008/newsfullstory.php?id=1204695816
http://www.policecars.us/thingsthatmakeyousaywhat.html
http://www.abc.net.au/news/newsitems/200703/s1871242.htm
http://www.mg.co.za/article/2007-03-13-indian-police-hot-on-the-scent-of-crime
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad/Many-a-crossroad-between-cops-and-NID/articleshow/4544090.cms
http://www.highbeam.com/Cape+Argus+(South+Africa)/publications.aspx?date=200703&pageNumber=14
http://rantingsbymm.blogspot.com/2007/03/worlds-first-metrosexual-policemen.html
http://social.moldova.org/news/state-cops-to-smell-good-40435-eng.html
http://www.earthtimes.org/articles/show/47809.html
http://findarticles.com/p/news-articles/times-of-india-the/mi_8012/is_20070306/rose-cop-ahmedabad/ai_n39437336/
http://www.radioislam.co.za/news/2007/March%202007/News%2015.03.07.htm
http://www.clothes2order.com/read_news/170/2/Policemen_in_India_to_Receive_New,_Better_Smelling_Uniforms.html
http://www.theindiatree.com/forum2/index.php?showtopic=213&st=20
Fashion Innovation
Imitation to Innovation-Fashion in Creative Economy-
India in next 10 years is going to be another trillion dollar economy, and with this envisioned growth and economic development it is essential to focus on the future now. Historically, the world economy has evolved from agrarian to manufacturing, manufacturing to service, service to knowledge and is now entering into a creative economy with patents, IPRs, innovations as the key economic drivers. Fashion too, needs creative & innovative thinking to become part of this new culture. Post independence, unlike wellness industry & automobile sector, fashion and textiles has registered the least number of patents and design registrations. The innovations in these sectors are comparatively low.
Indian Apparel Exports has recently achieved the benchmark of USD 10.8 billion and the domestic industry reaching USD 35.6 billion, the Apparel Industry largely comprising of small & medium enterprises needs innovative strategies to reach USD 25.0 Billion mark in the next 5 years. Even neighboring countries like Bangladesh, has achieved USD 12.0 billion in apparel exports due to innovative manufacturing approaches adopted by their companies. Simultaneously, Copenhagen talks failing on climate change brings new focus on “Eco-Friendly” fashion that can reduce carbon footprints significantly and cut the emission drastically. The largest retailers like Walmart, Nike, Carrefour and other leading brands have already started tying up with companies/manufacturers who can adapt these changing systems, processes & practices to create sustainable ecology & environment. The changing global business equation post quota, and with emergence of Asia as economic superpower calls for innovative strategies and futuristic outlook to create “New Ecosystems” that will drive future of Fashion Business.
The Department of Science and Technology, Govt. of India, under its TECHNOPRENEUR PROMOTION PROGRAMME (TePP) scheme has established new policies to support innovation, research & development for all the sectors. This TECHNOPRENEUR PROMOTION PROGRAMME (TePP) also offers immense tax benefits to the companies/entrepreneurs engaged in the “business of innovation”. The 21st Century has seen recent innovations that changed the world’s knowledge & information technology contributed by market leaders like Google, Apple, YouTube, Wikipedia and Twitter as front runners in business of innovation. In 2009, the brand valuation of Google was more than USD 280 billion, even ahead of largest fast food chain McDonald’s and other leading companies across the world. The strategic difference has been the continuous “INNOVATION” in IT. Best practices have been replaced by the “Next Practices” and innovation led approaches has changed “Concept to Consumer” supply chain. All these years Zara has been a classic example to avail “fast fashion” to it’s consumers in no time. Unlike other sectors, fashion has always been highly aesthetically driven, there is now a clear need to integrate the technical know how in order to create new supply chain models for the fashion industry.
The emerging context requires new labs like FASHION INNOVATION LAB at the “Institute of Apparel Management”, that is going to be future proof learning centres for students and industry professionals.
These labs will offer digital platform for virtual prototyping that covers ideation, story boarding, pattern engineering, marker making, virtual prototyping and virtual fashion show in a seamless flow, using Tukatech and other softwares. These labs will redefine the way, design and merchandising will be done in the times to come.
The innovations in the apparel sector shall deal with multi-faceted issues which can derive new meaning for fashion & Lifestyle Products in the future. These issues need wider perspectives, new methods & practices and altogether a new approach for contemporary product development:-
1. Innovating Design – “Tradition Vs Modernity” – Design has become a key factor in determining the life-cycle of products today. With the changing consumer’s taste & preferences, the life span of consumption of the fashion products has changed dramatically. Therefore, to evolve design in a fiercely competitive market, new techniques and technologies are needed. Design in fashion products today shall deal with two factors primarily i.e. value added factors that enhance the “aesthetics” and function/comfort that enhances the performance. The focus of the designers has been largely in aesthetics but the function remains stand still. The new technologies too have brought numerous innovations in yarns, fibers and end finishes. Dupont’s two way stretch that allows expandability in woven fabrics like knits. New development in Technical, Medical and Intelligent textiles has unleashed the fabric’s new “avatar”. These textiles can store information, control temperature, provide protection from the unwanted bacteria and viruses etc. and these innovations in the recent years have become the most popular global trends. Fashion designers are adding wires, circuits, and optical fibers to traditional textiles, creating garments that glow in the dark or keep the wearer warm. Meanwhile, electronic engineers are sewing conductive threads and sensors into body suits that map users’ whereabouts and respond to environmental stimuli. Technology has certainly taken a leap forward.
Environmentally, Bio-degradable textiles, Geo-textiles, Herbal and Organic textiles and re-usability have become the consumer desire, challenging apparel & fashion products to be more innovative. During the design and development of Gujarat’s Police Uniform as well as for the Indian Army, there has been a key focus to integrate Plasma & Nano technology in SUT (Special Utility Textiles). We had also introduced finishes like Fragrance finish for reducing stress, Anti-microbil to protect from unwanted bacteria, Anti-dust for easy maintenance, UV-protection from direct sun burn etc. in the uniform designs for these specialized sectors. Therefore, such technological intervention can very well enhance the design and performance of fashion and life-style products. The dragon skin for Bullet Proof Jackets etc has penetrated the new functional requirements. The new life-style requirements for the millennium generation needs pragmatic approaches in the printing techniques through digital technologies, new surface designs where crafts can be blended with latest machinery. Styling of garments which will have universal design sensibilities to match with the new context, personalities and market segmentation, creating a bouquet of looks for the blended consumers such as traditional, visibly modern and absolute modern. Intelligent clothing will hold the key to “Future of Fashion”, my students Kranti Kiran Vistakula and Prasanjeet Kundu had recently developed “ClimaGearTM” temperature controlling clothing, which can control desirable temperature at extreme climates (-40 degrees till +50 Degrees) and weigh nothing more than 750 pounds. Wearable computing is the generation next fashion statement, even brands like NOKIA has been developing intelligent clothing that are Multi-Purpose. Therefore, design needs a paradigm shift to look at future aspirations and context in order to adapt best to emerging needs.
Sizes Vs Fit - Fashion has moved significantly from voluminous/draped garment to second skin, and the “Visual Torso” of human body has changed significantly. As stated in my article, the 20th century fashion has redefined the “Concept of Waist”.
“Waist” popularly known as the empire line (or closer to it), during the 18th century, became more functional in early 19th Century to accommodate the working habits and neo-culture. Waist came down from the traditional “empire line” to a more anatomically correct waist. Post world war, with the evolution of “New LOOK” by ace fashion designer Christian Dior, the narrowest area in the Torso became the modern waist.
The “Hippy Look” in 1960’s, further added the spice to the “waist story” and what we see today in most of the trousers and bottoms are the adaptation of “Hipsters”.
Such sea changes didn’t enable garment details to modify i.e. as pockets, hem, belt etc. The drop of waist, over the past centuries has affected tremendously on the use of pockets, especially the back pockets. In the present context even, how many people still put their wallet and belongings into the back pocket? It has remained a style feature but no more a functional unit in trousers.
The modern consumer aspires to look “attractive” and the changing “self-image” of the millennium generation wants to pick up “Fit” rather than “Sizes”. The choices and the purchase decisions are driven by fit factors. Even the brand loyalty is largely determined by the fit factor rather than offering range of sizes. Thus, making it imperative to look at fit in a new manner for sizing the garments rather than continuing as S, M, L, XL, XXL etc. India’s first Fashion Innovation Lab provides digital platforms like “e-fit” to develop the new sizes for fashion industry. Such New age digital platforms enhances the visualization skills, offers virtual prototyping that enables ergonomically correct fits and forms. These platforms are extremely cost effective, offer immense flexibility to the user and saves time & effort dramatically for a new product development. Digital platforms like these are a key to the future of digital design & merchandising. Such technologies will only help evolve new genre of fashionable forms/fits for the fashion aware consumers.
Ergonomic Vs Quality –Quality in garments are always evaluated based on the physical characteristics such as wear and tear, stress test, color fastening, seam strength, abrasion resistance, endurance etc. Quality has no more a direct relation with the comfort of wearer. The future looks at clothing in a more ergonomically correct manner and only ergonomic variants will determine the quality and comfort of the user. Fit, Quality & Comfort are essential for changing user needs and their interface with personal belongings like i.e. electronic money, wallets, sun glasses, Key chains, Cell phones, PDA, IPODS etc. Such factors have encouraged even the leading companies to integrate communication devices, GPS, weight division seams, expandable seam, stretch textiles, anti-wrinkle, multi-purpose pockets etc. that works in different contexts, environments and climatic conditions. Paunch ProofTM for obese and overweight includes all aspects of physical & mental comfort and is highly ergonomically functional. One of the famous example is the research on the design and development of a Georgia Tech Wearable Motherboard™ (Smart Shirt) for Combat Casualty Care has led to the realization of the world's first Wearable Motherboard™ or an "intelligent" garment for the 21st Century. The Georgia Tech Wearable Motherboard uses optical fibers to detect bullet wounds, and special sensors and interconnects to monitor the body vital signs during combat conditions. Quality has no more remained as a physical characteristic but an ergonomic (physical & perceptual) variant.
Looks Vs Life-style –Ace fashion designer, Christian Dior in 1947 changed the entire perception of the new women by introducing the “New Look”. The “look” has morphed into a “lifestyle”, from “how it looks” to the “way it looks”. Fashion is no more just clothing but apparel, accessories, beauty, health and all factors constituting lifestyle that are part of the human needs and desire. These consumers are being identified by their lifestyle pattern. Their choices are not only governed by their physical profile but also by the lifestyle variables surrounding them. Whether its Metro-Sexual status or GenNext youth within the consumers, the “self image” is based on the lifestyle factors. The changing aspiration of the new age consumer needs a “lifestyle look” to be catered by the brands and companies. People living in urban cityscapes verses rural country sides, the “lifestyle look” needs to be clearly demarked. Therefore, “lifestyle look” is the emerging phenomenon for consumer segmentation in 21st Century.
The fashion forward needs innovation and the only way to inbuilt innovative ideas is to provide creative platforms & thoughtful leadership which can contribute towards this movement. The creative economy must see plenty of innovations NOT inspirations OR imitations for developing fashionably advance products. Future of fashion and apparel has to begin with “lateral thinking” rather than “literal thinking.
India in next 10 years is going to be another trillion dollar economy, and with this envisioned growth and economic development it is essential to focus on the future now. Historically, the world economy has evolved from agrarian to manufacturing, manufacturing to service, service to knowledge and is now entering into a creative economy with patents, IPRs, innovations as the key economic drivers. Fashion too, needs creative & innovative thinking to become part of this new culture. Post independence, unlike wellness industry & automobile sector, fashion and textiles has registered the least number of patents and design registrations. The innovations in these sectors are comparatively low.
Indian Apparel Exports has recently achieved the benchmark of USD 10.8 billion and the domestic industry reaching USD 35.6 billion, the Apparel Industry largely comprising of small & medium enterprises needs innovative strategies to reach USD 25.0 Billion mark in the next 5 years. Even neighboring countries like Bangladesh, has achieved USD 12.0 billion in apparel exports due to innovative manufacturing approaches adopted by their companies. Simultaneously, Copenhagen talks failing on climate change brings new focus on “Eco-Friendly” fashion that can reduce carbon footprints significantly and cut the emission drastically. The largest retailers like Walmart, Nike, Carrefour and other leading brands have already started tying up with companies/manufacturers who can adapt these changing systems, processes & practices to create sustainable ecology & environment. The changing global business equation post quota, and with emergence of Asia as economic superpower calls for innovative strategies and futuristic outlook to create “New Ecosystems” that will drive future of Fashion Business.
The Department of Science and Technology, Govt. of India, under its TECHNOPRENEUR PROMOTION PROGRAMME (TePP) scheme has established new policies to support innovation, research & development for all the sectors. This TECHNOPRENEUR PROMOTION PROGRAMME (TePP) also offers immense tax benefits to the companies/entrepreneurs engaged in the “business of innovation”. The 21st Century has seen recent innovations that changed the world’s knowledge & information technology contributed by market leaders like Google, Apple, YouTube, Wikipedia and Twitter as front runners in business of innovation. In 2009, the brand valuation of Google was more than USD 280 billion, even ahead of largest fast food chain McDonald’s and other leading companies across the world. The strategic difference has been the continuous “INNOVATION” in IT. Best practices have been replaced by the “Next Practices” and innovation led approaches has changed “Concept to Consumer” supply chain. All these years Zara has been a classic example to avail “fast fashion” to it’s consumers in no time. Unlike other sectors, fashion has always been highly aesthetically driven, there is now a clear need to integrate the technical know how in order to create new supply chain models for the fashion industry.
The emerging context requires new labs like FASHION INNOVATION LAB at the “Institute of Apparel Management”, that is going to be future proof learning centres for students and industry professionals.
These labs will offer digital platform for virtual prototyping that covers ideation, story boarding, pattern engineering, marker making, virtual prototyping and virtual fashion show in a seamless flow, using Tukatech and other softwares. These labs will redefine the way, design and merchandising will be done in the times to come.
The innovations in the apparel sector shall deal with multi-faceted issues which can derive new meaning for fashion & Lifestyle Products in the future. These issues need wider perspectives, new methods & practices and altogether a new approach for contemporary product development:-
1. Innovating Design – “Tradition Vs Modernity” – Design has become a key factor in determining the life-cycle of products today. With the changing consumer’s taste & preferences, the life span of consumption of the fashion products has changed dramatically. Therefore, to evolve design in a fiercely competitive market, new techniques and technologies are needed. Design in fashion products today shall deal with two factors primarily i.e. value added factors that enhance the “aesthetics” and function/comfort that enhances the performance. The focus of the designers has been largely in aesthetics but the function remains stand still. The new technologies too have brought numerous innovations in yarns, fibers and end finishes. Dupont’s two way stretch that allows expandability in woven fabrics like knits. New development in Technical, Medical and Intelligent textiles has unleashed the fabric’s new “avatar”. These textiles can store information, control temperature, provide protection from the unwanted bacteria and viruses etc. and these innovations in the recent years have become the most popular global trends. Fashion designers are adding wires, circuits, and optical fibers to traditional textiles, creating garments that glow in the dark or keep the wearer warm. Meanwhile, electronic engineers are sewing conductive threads and sensors into body suits that map users’ whereabouts and respond to environmental stimuli. Technology has certainly taken a leap forward.
Environmentally, Bio-degradable textiles, Geo-textiles, Herbal and Organic textiles and re-usability have become the consumer desire, challenging apparel & fashion products to be more innovative. During the design and development of Gujarat’s Police Uniform as well as for the Indian Army, there has been a key focus to integrate Plasma & Nano technology in SUT (Special Utility Textiles). We had also introduced finishes like Fragrance finish for reducing stress, Anti-microbil to protect from unwanted bacteria, Anti-dust for easy maintenance, UV-protection from direct sun burn etc. in the uniform designs for these specialized sectors. Therefore, such technological intervention can very well enhance the design and performance of fashion and life-style products. The dragon skin for Bullet Proof Jackets etc has penetrated the new functional requirements. The new life-style requirements for the millennium generation needs pragmatic approaches in the printing techniques through digital technologies, new surface designs where crafts can be blended with latest machinery. Styling of garments which will have universal design sensibilities to match with the new context, personalities and market segmentation, creating a bouquet of looks for the blended consumers such as traditional, visibly modern and absolute modern. Intelligent clothing will hold the key to “Future of Fashion”, my students Kranti Kiran Vistakula and Prasanjeet Kundu had recently developed “ClimaGearTM” temperature controlling clothing, which can control desirable temperature at extreme climates (-40 degrees till +50 Degrees) and weigh nothing more than 750 pounds. Wearable computing is the generation next fashion statement, even brands like NOKIA has been developing intelligent clothing that are Multi-Purpose. Therefore, design needs a paradigm shift to look at future aspirations and context in order to adapt best to emerging needs.
Sizes Vs Fit - Fashion has moved significantly from voluminous/draped garment to second skin, and the “Visual Torso” of human body has changed significantly. As stated in my article, the 20th century fashion has redefined the “Concept of Waist”.
“Waist” popularly known as the empire line (or closer to it), during the 18th century, became more functional in early 19th Century to accommodate the working habits and neo-culture. Waist came down from the traditional “empire line” to a more anatomically correct waist. Post world war, with the evolution of “New LOOK” by ace fashion designer Christian Dior, the narrowest area in the Torso became the modern waist.
The “Hippy Look” in 1960’s, further added the spice to the “waist story” and what we see today in most of the trousers and bottoms are the adaptation of “Hipsters”.
Such sea changes didn’t enable garment details to modify i.e. as pockets, hem, belt etc. The drop of waist, over the past centuries has affected tremendously on the use of pockets, especially the back pockets. In the present context even, how many people still put their wallet and belongings into the back pocket? It has remained a style feature but no more a functional unit in trousers.
The modern consumer aspires to look “attractive” and the changing “self-image” of the millennium generation wants to pick up “Fit” rather than “Sizes”. The choices and the purchase decisions are driven by fit factors. Even the brand loyalty is largely determined by the fit factor rather than offering range of sizes. Thus, making it imperative to look at fit in a new manner for sizing the garments rather than continuing as S, M, L, XL, XXL etc. India’s first Fashion Innovation Lab provides digital platforms like “e-fit” to develop the new sizes for fashion industry. Such New age digital platforms enhances the visualization skills, offers virtual prototyping that enables ergonomically correct fits and forms. These platforms are extremely cost effective, offer immense flexibility to the user and saves time & effort dramatically for a new product development. Digital platforms like these are a key to the future of digital design & merchandising. Such technologies will only help evolve new genre of fashionable forms/fits for the fashion aware consumers.
Ergonomic Vs Quality –Quality in garments are always evaluated based on the physical characteristics such as wear and tear, stress test, color fastening, seam strength, abrasion resistance, endurance etc. Quality has no more a direct relation with the comfort of wearer. The future looks at clothing in a more ergonomically correct manner and only ergonomic variants will determine the quality and comfort of the user. Fit, Quality & Comfort are essential for changing user needs and their interface with personal belongings like i.e. electronic money, wallets, sun glasses, Key chains, Cell phones, PDA, IPODS etc. Such factors have encouraged even the leading companies to integrate communication devices, GPS, weight division seams, expandable seam, stretch textiles, anti-wrinkle, multi-purpose pockets etc. that works in different contexts, environments and climatic conditions. Paunch ProofTM for obese and overweight includes all aspects of physical & mental comfort and is highly ergonomically functional. One of the famous example is the research on the design and development of a Georgia Tech Wearable Motherboard™ (Smart Shirt) for Combat Casualty Care has led to the realization of the world's first Wearable Motherboard™ or an "intelligent" garment for the 21st Century. The Georgia Tech Wearable Motherboard uses optical fibers to detect bullet wounds, and special sensors and interconnects to monitor the body vital signs during combat conditions. Quality has no more remained as a physical characteristic but an ergonomic (physical & perceptual) variant.
Looks Vs Life-style –Ace fashion designer, Christian Dior in 1947 changed the entire perception of the new women by introducing the “New Look”. The “look” has morphed into a “lifestyle”, from “how it looks” to the “way it looks”. Fashion is no more just clothing but apparel, accessories, beauty, health and all factors constituting lifestyle that are part of the human needs and desire. These consumers are being identified by their lifestyle pattern. Their choices are not only governed by their physical profile but also by the lifestyle variables surrounding them. Whether its Metro-Sexual status or GenNext youth within the consumers, the “self image” is based on the lifestyle factors. The changing aspiration of the new age consumer needs a “lifestyle look” to be catered by the brands and companies. People living in urban cityscapes verses rural country sides, the “lifestyle look” needs to be clearly demarked. Therefore, “lifestyle look” is the emerging phenomenon for consumer segmentation in 21st Century.
The fashion forward needs innovation and the only way to inbuilt innovative ideas is to provide creative platforms & thoughtful leadership which can contribute towards this movement. The creative economy must see plenty of innovations NOT inspirations OR imitations for developing fashionably advance products. Future of fashion and apparel has to begin with “lateral thinking” rather than “literal thinking.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
My Book on Fashion Innovation
I'm writing a book on fashion innovation, those who are interested in contributing their ideas are most welcome from across the world in the area of textiles research, fashion research, smart clothing, intelligent textiles etc.
Contents:
1. Introduction
a. Pre-Historic Civilization and Innovation
b. Origin of Basic needs
c. Evolution of Society & Culture
d. Clothing and Adornment
2. Origin of Innovation & Design
a. Clothing & Culture
b. Origin of Fashion & Design
c. Fashion Evolution
3. Elements of Fashion
a. Fashion Basics
b. Shapes, forms and structures
c. materials & textiles
4. Innovative thinking
a. Lateral/Creative Thinking
b. Ideation and Concept Building
c. Representation and Prototyping
5. Fashion Business
a. Design Management
b. New Perspectives to Manage Creative Businesses
c. Creative Branding
Contents:
1. Introduction
a. Pre-Historic Civilization and Innovation
b. Origin of Basic needs
c. Evolution of Society & Culture
d. Clothing and Adornment
2. Origin of Innovation & Design
a. Clothing & Culture
b. Origin of Fashion & Design
c. Fashion Evolution
3. Elements of Fashion
a. Fashion Basics
b. Shapes, forms and structures
c. materials & textiles
4. Innovative thinking
a. Lateral/Creative Thinking
b. Ideation and Concept Building
c. Representation and Prototyping
5. Fashion Business
a. Design Management
b. New Perspectives to Manage Creative Businesses
c. Creative Branding
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